At the Wharf, the fish tacos are more like wraps, and the open-faced lobsterrolls taste as much of cucumber as crustacean. But there’s no quibbling with the view: the Marine Parkway-Gil Hodges Memorial Bridge to the west, the Cross Bay Veterans Memorial Bridge to the east, and Manhattan far off to the north.
The place is just one link in a loose archipelago of restaurants and bars facing the glistening bay, most from the Rockaway Peninsula in Queens. The oceanside Boardwalk just a few blocks south has become well known among New Yorkers for its self-consciously hip concession stands and food carts, offering exotic treats like Venezuelan arepas and Bolivian salteñas. But these spots on the bay side remain little known except to the locals and boaters who ply Jamaica Bay and make a ritual of stopping by.